Gemstones are pieces of mineral crystals formed by natural geological processes and have a well-defined crystallographic structure. Gemstones have no universally accepted grading system. Historically, they were graded using the naked eye, by the color, clarity and rarity being the primary determinant qualities. The traditional classification in the West begins with a distinction between precious and semi-precious gemstones, however, it does not necessarily reflect present values. For example, some rare or unusual gemstones, which occur so infrequently that they are scarcely known, can be far more valuable than mid-quality precious gems and even diamonds.
The gemstone hunt is the most enchanting part of my creative process. Every year, utilising the gemologist expertise gained from the years studying and working in jewellery sphere, I spends days selecting specific colours, shapes and sizes of a variety of minerals and the World’s biggest gemstone fairs. Each solitary stone becomes an abstract idea charged with historical and symbolic meaning. Apart from diamonds, all of the gemstones I use in my jewellery are in their rough, uncut, crystal form, which has to be very spicific to fit the anticipated design. Since working with rough gemstones is such an intricate art, if there is even one mistake, the material will not work properly throughout the following steps. I suppose the simple silhouettes with emphasis on colours and textures would blur the boundaries between man-made and natural.
Diamonds
Besides metals and other gemstones, ASR Jewels is fully committed to supporting the sustainable development of the diamond sector from mine to the market as well. We work in close relationship with one of the oldest remaining Belgian diamond manufacturing families, a history that started in the early 1900’. We only use diamonds purchased through Diamond Producers Association (DPA) members of which provide safe, high quality jobs to members of their communities and locally source goods and services needed for their operations. DPA members partner with local communities and governments to minimise environmental impact and work will all sectors in the value chain to expand responsible practices to the whole diamond ecosystem.
Every year, modern diamond mining contributes over $292 million in benefits related to social programs worldwide. These local partnerships help fund social programs ranging from education and healthcare to training and skills development. Diamond mining companies pay on average 66% more than national average salary in countries where they operate, to a workforce of primarily local and indigenous community members. Modern diamond miners are reducing energy consumption and carbon emissions whenever possible and increasing their reliance on renewable energy. Natural diamonds produce 69% less carbon emission per carat than laboratory-created diamonds which require very large quantities of energy and in reality rely almost exclusively on fossil fuels for their production.
Every diamond has certain characteristics that define its quality. They are known as 4Cs: colour, clarity, cut and carat weight.
Colour
A letter grade from D (colourless) to Z (light yellow) is assigned to each diamond to evaluate its natural tint. With an exception of colourful diamonds (pink, blue, fancy yellow, etc.), the closer to being colourless the diamond is, the rarer it is. ASR JWLS utilises only the finest F+ colour diamonds, since the colour directly affects the stone’s appearance.
Clarity
The clarity of the diamond is defined by internal flaws visible under 10x power magnification. Inclusions hinder the refraction and return of light, which means that the lower the grade, the cloudier the diamond is.
All of the diamonds sold by ASR JWLS are graded VS or higher on the scale, as we do not approve of diamonds with noticeable imperfections to the unaided eye. Exceptions are only made to rough or rare Fancy Coloured diamonds.
Cut
Cut is perhaps the most important characteristic of the stone, which refers to the interaction of the diamond’s facets with light. The most important factors that determine the quality is proportion, symmetry and polish. A too deep or too shallow cut may allow the light to escape through sides or the bottom of the diamond, reducing its’ sparkle significantly. The movement of light may also be affected by misaligned facets and the outside finish of the diamond. ASR JWLS uses exceptionally excellently cut diamonds with a preference to “Heart and Arrow” cut at any possible occasion.
Carat
Carat defines the weight of a diamond and equals 0.20 grams. Carat weight is definitely the least important criterion to determine the beauty of a stone, however, it directly refers to its size. Diamonds of different shapes have a different carat weight. Some diamonds may have a higher weight regardless of their size. For instance, two stones of the same carat weight can vary widely in price depending on their clarity, colour and cut.
